2008 TRIP NOTES. Beginning with 2008 we are splitting our NOTES into three sections. This page is a general overview of the trip. More detailed information about road conditions and facilities changes can be found on sepatate pages. Like everyone else, we have been searching for ways to cut mileage and save money this year. Our regular, recommended, route involves crossing the border at Sweetgrass, MT, north of Shelby. From there we go through Lethbridge to Calgary, then through Banff and Jasper NPs to Jasper, Prince George, and finally Dawson Creek. In the states we take I-94 to Montana, then 200 to Great Falls and I-15 to the border. Our mileage over this route is 1937 to Prince George and 2187 to Dawson Creek. Taking the "shortcut" by leaving the Interstate at Fargo and going through Minot and Regina to Edmonton before turning west to Jasper is 102 miles shorter, but you miss all the North Dakota and Montana badlands and spend more time (gas) in Canada. From Calgary to Dawson Creek via the Icefields Parkway and Yellowhead/Hart Highways (Banff-Jasper-Pr. George) is 637 miles. By going "direct" via Edmonton the Calgary-Dawson Creek trip is just 104 miles shorter. For us that equates to about twenty-five bucks that we would save, in return for missing out on one of the world's great scenic drives. The Minneapolis-Fargo-Winnepeg-Calgary route is generally regarded as the shortest: 1918 miles to DC, or about 269 miles shorter than our preferred route, but remember it means a lot more driving in Canada, where gas is still a lot higher. Also, it's so boring you'll be begging someone to shoot you. These mileages are based on our trip records and Rand McNally Travel Atlas. If anyone has a better way to go, I'm sure everyone would like to know. Departed afternoon of 5-12, a day later than planned, and stopped to rest near Valley City, ND. Took our usual I-94 route to MT, then 200 across Montana to I-15 at Great Falls. Stopped at rest area between GF and Shelby. We kept our Interstate speed at about 62 and averaged 18+mpg first two tanks. In Montana they offer a "super regular" grade, 10% ethanol, for about ten cents less than "regular" regular. The super is 85.5 octane. Our mpg from Glendive to GF dropped to 16, but this was also influenced by the steady rise in altitude and a head wind. Anyway, I saved 3% on gas and lost 10% on mpg! Entered Canada Wednesday morning. We explored a new Calgary by-pass by staying on 3 from Fort McLeod and turning north on 22 before Crowsnest Pass. This is a pleasant drive through ranch country in the foothills and comes out on 1 west of Calgary. This by-pass is 27 miles longer, but eliminates going through about 8 small towns on 2. At Longview there is a turn for the summer road through Kananaskis Country, but the route was still closed so we planned to take it on return leg. (But didn't; see below.) Gas was $4.50-$5US per US gallon all over. This was a shock since I had checked prices in March and found them close to last year. Canadians were also shocked by the surge in prices. With funds at par, if you pay $1.32CD/liter it works out to $5US/gallon. We rarely paid under $5 and paid as much as $5.75. Managed to get through Banff and Jasper on a very nice day with little company on the roads. Many of the parks facilities and CGs still closed, lakes frozen, no greening at all, and only a few rental Class Cs on the road. Banff still torn up for paving downtown. Stopped at Mount Terry Fox late in evening. In morning we heated our water for coffee and hot chocolate and ate our muffins. Heckle and Jeckle bussed. We were lucky throughout the trip to have good morning and evening weather to cook. "Cooking" for us means boiling water; for drinks in the morning and pasta with chicken or tuna at night. On 15th we went through Prince George. While having lunch with our friend Monica she mentioned that since it was Thursday the gas prices would go up. We literally watched the price signs change through the window as we ate. Fortunately we were headed west on the Yellowhead and found a station that hadn't added the 6 cents yet. Regarding lunch, we made a pact early on to only eat at restautants named for a New England city famous for a tea party. They have a great Philly, and we always split one. Karen gets a side salad extra. Prices vary between US and Canada, but still a cheap meal and plenty to eat. This was our first trip going up on the Yellowhead and Cassiar. We tried throughout the trip to eliminate non-productive side trips, in order to save gas, but felt obliged to drive out to Prince Rupert even though there are ony two RV parks at the end of the 150 mile trip. Always a beautiful drive, and we hit a perfect blue-sky day. Because the mountain snows were just beginning to melt the river was flowing fast but not too high. Stayed at Sealy Lake PP on way west (Thursday night). By Friday night we were in Sewart, BC and stayed at the Rainey Creek CG in town. Ouly a couple other campers, which was more than we had seen at earlier stops. In the morning we wanted to leave early so aroused the host, who groggily waved our fee. Saturday was spent on the Cassiar (see conditions and facilities for details). All but one RV parks had already opened. Meziadin PP was closed due to about 3 feet of snow stiill on ground and lake frozen solid. Got to Boya Lake PP, one of our favorite stops, Saturday night. Lake was ice free. Because we can pick and choose our business stops between Watson Lake and Whitehorse (we repeat this stretch on way home) we made pretty good time on Sunday and stopped at Lake Creek in western Yukon. We were surprised at the few travelers on the road and in the parks since this was the Canada three-day weekend. As soon as I broke out the morning muffins we were mugged by a trio of grey jays. One kept me entertained by eating crumbs from my fingers, while the other two stalked my right hand from the ground, hoping to get the whole muffin. A note about the Cassiar. Sunday morning we stopped at Yukon Motel (Teslin Lake) and were talking with Juanita when a guy drove up in a Class C and started ranting about the terrible road. Karen set him straight and I told Juanita if anyone else acted like that she should just slap him. (Don't worry, she won't.) Anyway, we were laughing on Sunday wondering what the reaction of that driver was to the western Yukon frost heaves! There are always people complaining without having any frame of reference. Don't let them influence your choices. Most disturbing were the negative comments made by an attendant at a Watson Lake gas station. He said he told everyone not to drive the Cassiar, based, apparently, on his experinces several years ago pulling a load of hay with a pickup. There are a lot of good people who we consider friends trying to make a living on the Cassiar, and no one has the right to try to deflect their potential business. A note about the Cassiar. Sunday morning we stopped at Yukon Motel (Teslin Lake) and were talking with Juanita when a guy drove up in a Class C and started ranting about the terrible road. Karen set him straight and I told Juanita if anyone else acted like that she should just slap him. (Don't worry, she won't.) Anyway, we were laughing on Sunday wondering what the reaction of that driver was to the western Yukon frost heaves! There are always people complaining without having any frame of reference. Don't let them influence your choices. Most disturbing were the negative comments made by an attendant at a Watson Lake gas station. He said he told everyone not to drive the Cassiar, based, apparently, on his experinces several years ago pulling a load of hay with a pickup. There are a lot of good people who we consider friends trying to make a living on the Cassiar, and no one has the right to try to deflect their potential business. Monday (19th) we made if from Lake Creek to Valdez. Beautiful weather once again but deep snow in pass. Snow in Worthington Glacier parking lot was over Karen's head. We stayed at Allison Point across from Valdez and there was no collection box or host. In the morning we were treated by the antics of a small pod of young orcas heading out, plus a couple of playful harbor seals. On Tuesday we took the Glenn Highway to Wasilla and stayed with our friends who moved to AK from WI nine years ago. Wednesday we did all of our Mat-Su stops as far north as Talkeetna. Strange to see the town with so few people walking around, but nice to not have to fight the cruse line bus crowds. Evening of the 21 we enjoyed our grandaughter's end of year track and field event (she took two golds and a bronze, plus the team took gold). Next morning was her 6th grade graduation. Anchorage has junior high, not middle school. After graduation and our annual stop at the Golden Pond Chinese Buffet (36th st.) we headed south and stopped at the city CG in Seward. Went downtown for our basket of halibut chunks. We puttered around in Seward most of Friday morning but still made it to Soldotna by evening. Saturday morning we left early and drove straight to Homer, then worked our way back making stops. This was the first wet weather we encountered, nearly two weeks into the trip. Stopped overnight in Soldotna again, and awoke to showers and wind. Besides the weather, we were concerned about a truck crash on the Sterling Highway that had been causing road closures as they tried to recover it from the slough. On Sunday morning we had to get to Whittier to take the 26 glacier cruise. We did this a few years ago in weather conditions that even the captain described as the worst he had been out in. This year our gamble paid off as the day was absolutely perfect with blue skies and sunshine. There was some calving, and hundreds of sea otters in rafts. Couldn't have asked for a better day. We get a military discount on things like this, but our $40 each discount was almost eliminated by a "tax" that I suspect was mostly a fuel surcharge! Next day was Memorial Day and we spent a quiet day with our Wasilla friends before heading north in afternoon. Our goal was to make it to the East Fork rest area, which is a free campground convenient to our Denali area work. The CG part of the rest area was gated, so we had to park up above. One of my tires was wearing on inside so I decided to put spare on for the Denali Highway transit next day. A couple LDS missionaries on the way to Healy stopped to help. Tuesday we drove north as far as Healy, but did not go on to Nenana. Our information is that the RV park there has reopened. After driving about a hundred miles we got on the gravel Denali Highway and stopped a Gracious House to deliver maps and chat with Butch and Carol. They are pretty sure they won't open next summer, whether of not they get a seller, but want to keep the winter business which is parties of snow machiners. One thing driving them out of business is taxes on just about every aspect of their business. Also, like many small outfits in the bush, it is hard to continue offering fuel, a traditional money-maker, when the wholesale market is so volitile and with only pennies per gallon profit eaten up by the cost of running a diesel generator to power the pump. After leaving the lodge we drove about 20 more miles and I notice a strange clunk when braking. Stopped and checked the tires but everything looked OK so drove another mile or so and stopped again. This time I discovered that all of the nuts wre missing from the spare (left front) and two of them were laying on the road next to the van. Karen walked back about a quarter mile to look for more with no luck. The holes in the rim were pounded out so the spare could no longer be used, and the lugs were damaged but had thread except in middle. Put the old tire back on with three nuts and drove the 200 miles to Fairbanks. Next day we went to Giant Tire for repairs. While replacing the lugs the mechanic moved the brake calipers and both pads just fell out on the ground! Discovered that the ceramic had separated from the metal backing that clips to the calipers, and they could have fallen out any time, with just the dimple where the rusted rivets had been keeping them in place. Got an alignment next day. Total cost for the bad tire was $600! Luckily I have a brother in Fairbanks who took a day off to help me out. The first two tire stores we stopped at couldn't schedule me for days, but Giant Tire took us right away. Our one day in Fairbanks was consumed by the tire problem, so on the 29th (Thursday) we got a late start and headed for Tok. Stayed at Tok River CG. Our neighbor camper had a Chevy van like ours only "on steroids." We gave him some maps, which he was happy to get as he had observed that visitor centers only had detailed infromation about their local area (or province, or state etc. depending on th government body picking up the tab for the service). Likewise, there is a wealth of free printed information available as you travel, but you only learn about places that buy advertising. I believe we have the only resource that is truly comprehensive. We spent a leasurly day driving to Dawson with a long stop at Chicken. As is our usual practice, we visited our Dawson RV parks, took in the early show at Gerties (if you walk in before 7 you don't have to pay the cover charge), then headed out to log a hundred miles and stop at Moose Creek. Next day we stopped at Five Finger Rapids and took the walk down to the river. Picked up our monster cinnamon bun at Braeburns, and made quick stop in Whitehorse before heading west through Haines Junction and down the Haines Highway to Million Dollar Falls CG. All alone in the CG until after midnight when a commercial van pulled in. As is our usual practice, we visited our Dawson RV parks, took in the early show at Gerties (if you walk in before 7 you don't have to pay the cover charge), then headed out to log a hundred miles and stop at Moose Creek. Next day we stopped at Five Finger Rapids and took the walk down to the river. Picked up our monster cinnamon bun at Braeburns, and made quick stop in Whitehorse before heading west through Haines Junction and down the Haines Highway to Million Dollar Falls CG. All alone in the CG until after midnight when a commercial van pulled in. Sunday was our Haines day, and we made the most of it. We hiked out to Battery Point and were surprised to find so many wild flowers blooming so early, including chocolate lilly, shooting star, wild geranium, dogwood, buttercups, and, just opening, beach pea and iris. Heard whales sounding from the woods, but didn't see any from the beach. Collected rocks and driftwood. I figure that we returned home with about 300 pounds of rocks and maybe 50 of driftwood. Our goal is to move Alaska to Wisconsin, one rock at a time, so we can save money on gas. By 2057 we should have Mt. McKinley reflecting in our frog pond. Ruth Ann at Salmon Run Adventures was nice enough to give us a place to park in her beautiful campground. On Monday (2nd) we took the ferry to Skagway. While waiting for Karen to finish shopping I got a call from my brother from Colorado cancelling plans to meet in Jasper on the 9th for a couple days together in the park. Bad weather was projected, and it turned out he made the right decision. If he had called a few hours earlier we could have changed our ferry tickets and stayed at Haines a couple more days, but instead we just ended up a couple days ahead of schedule. On the 3rd we made it to Big Creek, west of Watson Lake, via a stop at Whitehorse for a shower at Robert Service CG, and Wednesday we overnighted at Muncho Lake. Driving along the lake we noticed a FULL sign at MacDonald GS and started to ge a little nervous. Strawberry Flats, our preferred stop, had the same sign out, but we pulled in anyway and found a spot right away. Remember, 3 of the 4 Muncho Lake RV parks have either closed or stopped offering camping, leaving just Northern Rockies Lodge and the two provincial CGs. Liard Hotsprings, to the west, is usually full in peak season because there is litle daily turnover, and to the east the next place, The Poplars, is closed for this season. On the 5th we got all the way to Kiskatinaw River CG (old curved bridge) and found that although the CG was almost empty (one other camper) about half the sites had reserved signs out for the weekend. Next day we were able to do all of our Dawson Creek stops and finish the Hart Highway, ending up at Slims Creek on the way to Jasper. Saturday we found Jasper to be wet and cloudy, so we opted to head down to Edmonton and spend a few hours at the mall before heading south. By 10 am Sunday we were back in the states and put in a long day. After Great Falls we took 89 south across the pass, where there was fresh snow. The radio was forecasting snow flurries for Great Falls next day, and Glacier was supposed to get up to a foot of new snow Wednesday (the day my brother had intnded to be there). At White Sulpher Springs we turned east on 12 and drove until we got on the Interstate, west of Miles City. The day was cloudy, rainy, and windy, but most of the scenery along this stretch is fairly close (cliffs and badlands) so we enjoyed the drive and especially the tail wind that pushed us all the way to Minnesota and gave us mpgs of 20, 20, and 21. We took time to drive the loop road in Teddy Roosevelt NP and stopped again at Valley City. Next day (Tuesday) arrived home at 3:30. Spent next two days unpacking and cutting grass (we have 4 acres of lawn). Friday a routine trip to Oconomowoc for Karen's dad's 90th birthday turned into the biggest adventure of the summer as the Interstate and many SE WI roads were closed due to flooding. After the weekend we headed back to MSP to pick up the grandchildren for their summer visit. Srangely, we did not see one bear in Alaska this year. However, we saw a lot in Canada and learned that black bears, usually very nervous and unlikely to stick around if you go back for a photo, are so intent on eating fresh greens to get unpluged that they pay no attention to gawkers and make perfect photo subjects. Lots of moose and caribou. We thouroughly injoyed our "backwards" trip and a new look at all the familiar routes. It's amazing how many "new" things we noticed along the way. It seemed there were a lot of rigs on the road, but since we were going against the flow we expected to see more. Word was that the "count" at Beaver Creek was 150 over same date last year, but these bean counters are never very accurate. I believe there were lots of travelers, but few spending much money other than gas and the basics. In other words, they're learning to travel like us! A Whitehorse paper said tourism would be down due to the American "recession" and the American presidential elections, proving that despite the Canadian media's obsession over our business they know very little about either our economy or our politics. This year we were able to get cell phone service in almost all Canadian locations for the first time, and didn't use any calling cards. This may prove our undoing as I see our first cell bill is alreay packed with $44 in roaming charges. We were saddened to see some people gone that we had looked forward to visiting with, and some campgrounds closed that we didn't expect. One can't generalize any one or two causes for the net loss of campgrounds because each has it's own personal and very human story. High gas prices is causing some remote operators to cut back or eliminate their fuel sales, but they are finding ways to make up the revenue in other areas. And most were taking very little profit on fuel to stay competitive with the town pumps. We were able to control costs by cooking as much as possible (with the cooperation of the weather), avoiding unnecessary side trips, and limiting fuel purchase to the minimum amount necessay when forced to buy fuel away from the main hubs (in Alaska). We also limited our "vacation" travel before and after Prince George. See our new road conditions and facilities changes pages for more info.